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Top 10 National Parks for Rock Climbing

Rob Andrejewski, GORP  |  Редактирана на 22/08/2006

A half-century ago Yosemite's El Capitan was considered impossible to climb. Then in 1958 — after a total of 47 days spread over 17 months — a team led by Warren Harding ascended the sheer face of El Cap's Nose. In the world of climbing this was an epic achievement, not unlike Roger Bannister's 1954 sub-four-minute mile. The very idea that it could be done lent a foot up to those who would follow.

The proliferation of rock climbing has much to do with the successes of Harding, Royal Robbins, John Salathe, and many others in the heyday of Yosemite Valley. Since the 1960s the area has been synonymous with rock climbing in the United States. It is appropriate that the activity, which has only recently been considered a sport, began in one of the nation's favorite protected places. In the spirit of the original conservationists, Yosemite National Park and its climbers worked together to develop an ethic that allowed for both the enjoyment and continued protection of the land. As rock climbing grew in size other national parks — Joshua Tree, Grand Teton, Sequoia and Kings Canyon among them — became part of the rock circuit and continued to champion the Yosemite ethic.


It is no secret that rock climbing is hugely popular today. Some of the world's finest rock can be found in the parks listed on the pages that follow this article. The parks here were chosen for the number of routes available, the ease of accessibility, the quality of rock, and the beauty of the climb. You will no doubt notice a conspicuous lack of some of the alpine classics America has to offer. Places like Mount Rainier, the North Cascades, and Denali are wonderlands of rock and ice, but this is a list of places where technical climbing is king.

These national parks offer mainly trad climbing, in which the climber places his or her own protection. Most have sport and top-roped climbing as well, and those that do not, such as Utah's Capitol Reef, offer quality alternatives nearby.

A high standard of respect for these wild places is expected of all visitors, and the climber must adhere to stringent rules to maintain these lands. Bolt only where absolutely necessary, leave stone-colored webbing when recovery is impossible, and follow all local rules and regs. Whether the terrain is granite, sandstone, gneiss, or schist, the ethic remains.

Recently, the climb that took Harding and his team more than a year to complete was done in less than four and a half hours. Technology has allowed us to climb higher and harder with less impact on our natural settings than ever before. Climbing's reward comes not in conquering nature but in enjoying it and overcoming obstacles. Alpine-high views of breathtaking settings don't hurt, either.

[b:f0e932d628]1. Joshua Tree National Park, California[/b:f0e932d628]

The early Mormon settlers who came to the Mojave Desert were reminded of the prophet Joshua by the strange yucca that grows there. This "bearded" plant with arms raised heavenward was christened the Joshua tree. The Mormons believed that, like its namesake, the Joshua tree would point the way to the Promised Land.

Ask any local climber and he or she will tell you that the Mormons did indeed stumble upon paradise. This place is climbing heaven. The more devout followers of the rock religion pay homage at places like Jumbo Rocks, where cathedral-like boulders command reverence and — like much of the rock here—are quite fun to climb.

There was a time when Joshua Tree was considered a practice area for the big walls of Yosemite. Though it is still a great training ground, J-Tree has long since come into its own as a premier destination on the rock circuit. Late fall and early spring climbs are a rite of passage for climbers worldwide, and the warm desert climate, spectacular scenery, and quality granite make it especially popular in the winter.

The rock at Joshua Tree is a variety of granite known as quartz monzonite. It varies in quality but is generally solid. Quartz monzonite can be very abrasive and it may take a while for newcomers to the area to develop calluses. Whether you prefer crack, face, or friction climbing, there are literally thousands of wonderful routes available to toughen you up.

Areas like Hidden Valley and Hemingway Buttress are quite popular for both climbers and spectators. Echo Rock, an area that provides a wide array of great climbs for all abilities, is a wonderful place for the more experienced to bring newbies.

[b:f0e932d628]2. Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks, California[/b:f0e932d628]

For better or worse, Americans have mastered the art of big. We supersize our fries, we drive eight-cylinder, four-wheel-drive SUVs along flat suburban roads, and we watch 48-inch-screen TVs with up to 500 channels. The Sierra Nevada, the largest mountain range in the contiguous United States, is home to panoramic vistas, hundreds of ways for the creative hiker to get lost, and a stunning variety of wildlife. Somehow, though, I have a sneaking suspicion that Americans love the Sierra because things around here are just plain huge.

Situated in the heart of this 400-mile range are Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, two places that champion the theme of things large. Seqouia National Park is home to 14,494-foot Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the lower 48, and both Sequoia and Kings Canyon play host to groves of giant sequoia, the largest living thing in the world.

The rock climbing in Seqouia and Kings Canyon is fantastic. The parks provide an excellent alternative to Yosemite, which sits to the north. Many of Yosemite's big names — Royal Robbins, Fred Beckey, Yvon Chouinard, Galen Rowell — spent some time climbing here. Though Seqouia and Kings Canyon have never had the climbing reputation of their more popular big brother, there are many outstanding routes, such as the Obelisk, Grand Sentinel, and Chimney Rock, that warrant a visit.

[b:f0e932d628]3. Yosemite National Park, California[/b:f0e932d628]

Rock climbing was not born in the United States, but it came of age in America in a place called Yosemite.

Yosemite Valley is the centerpiece of California's Yosemite National Park. Here you will find enormous granite monoliths like Half Dome and El Capitan, which contain some of the most sought-after climbs in the world.

A roster of Yosemite first ascents reads like a who's who of modern rock climbing. Many who climbed here, legends such as Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, Warren Harding, John Salathe, Chuck Pratt, and Tom Frost, are as much a part of the history and lore of the sport as the climbs that made them famous.

Yosemite's contributions to rock climbing are both concrete and esoteric. In the 1930s new rope management techniques allowed climbers to scale Cathedral Spire. Later innovations — Salathe's steel pitons, Chouinard's new-design carabiners, and Ray Jardine's spring-loaded camming devices — allowed the next generation to ascend the granite walls with newfound speed and efficiency.

A Yosemite ethic rose up as the most difficult climbs fell. In the spirit of John Muir, legendary Yosemite climbers have recognized that climbing is more about communing with nature than subduing it. This ethic says to be bold but be careful, to use gear but to use it wisely, and to train hard and know what lies ahead.

Yosemite is a climbing mecca. Salathe's Wall on the Southwest Face of El Capitan is considered by many "the greatest rock climb in the world." Similarly, El Cap's Nose attracts climbers by the thousands.

[b:f0e932d628]4. Black Canyon on the Gunnison National Park, Colorado[/b:f0e932d628]

The Black Canyon of the Gunnison can be quite intimidating. It is wild and rugged, like the old frontier territory surrounding it. To paraphrase Wallace Hansen, a geologist who studied the Black for many years: There are deeper canyons, and there are steeper canyons, but none combine the narrow opening, sheer cliffs, somber countenance, and astonishing depths of this Colorado gorge.

The Gunnison River carved the canyon through hard, igneous rocks on its way to joining the Colorado River at Grand Junction. Over time the Gunnison produced steep canyon walls, which plummet to depths of more than 2,000 feet. The narrow canyon, only 1,500 feet across in some places, is cloaked in gloomy shadow for much of the day. This and the walls of dark gray schist and gneiss give the Black its name.

The Black Canyon is for experienced climbers only. There are no "easy" routes and there is no rescue. Hazards here range from poison ivy to loose scree to rattlesnakes lurking on your belay ledge. The sides of the canyon often jut out in spires and crags, most of the routes are long and complex, and the rock quality is inconsistent from route to route. That said, the Black offers the purity and adventure of climbing in a truly wild setting.

The best rock and most routes are found at the North Chasm View Wall. The moderate Leisure Climb will lead you up some great crack climbing along its six pitches. On the Checkerboard Wall — named for crisscrossing, pink pegmatite bands — a route by the same name has some great face climbing. Down on the South Rim, Blackjack is a 5.10 that has a little chimney climbing, some crack climbing, and a few tricky overhangs to keep you working.

[b:f0e932d628]5. Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado[/b:f0e932d628]

Seeing the snowcapped peaks of the Rockies for the first time is like an initial visit to the Grand Canyon or the Statue of Liberty: This "gateway to the West" is an American icon. And like other grandiose icons, say Stonehenge or the canals of Venice, no picture or video can do justice the beauty and majesty of the real thing.

With more than 70 summits above 12,000 feet, the rarefied air and spectacular views of Rocky Mountain National Park combine to take your breath away. Jagged peaks, lush valleys, sparkling lakes, and enough unspoiled backcountry to lose yourself in for weeks are all easy-to-find hallmarks of this mountain lover's paradise.

Rocky Mountain NP offers some of the best alpine climbing in North America on peaks carved by ancient glaciers. Technical climbing here is also worthy of praise. The Diamond on Longs Peak is considered to be one of the top ten rock climbs in the world. Once deemed impossible, there are at least 35 climbing routes and variations on the Diamond today.

Though the glory often goes to the Diamond, there are many other challenging and breathtaking routes within Rocky Mountain. Petit Grepon's South Face offers an excellent line that rewards the climber with incomparable views. Sykes Sickle on 12,575-foot Spearhead is one of the best climbs in the park, and Culp-Bossier on Hallet Peak serves as a fantastic introduction to multipitch climbing.

[b:f0e932d628]6. Acadia National Park, Maine[/b:f0e932d628]

Having the distinction of being the only national park in the northeastern United States brings Acadia a lot of visitors. They come to climb 1,532-foot Cadillac Mountain, the highest point on the Atlantic north of Rio, to bike along the 45 miles of crisscrossing carriage paths, which were originally commissioned by mogul John D. Rockefeller Jr., and to drive along Park Loop Road. In the summer Acadia can get downright crowded. Luckily there are 170 miles of opportunity for the hiker to hide in this 35,000-acre park.

Acadia is located mostly on Mount Desert Island, a curled shrimp of an island off of Maine's mid-coast. The coast is delightfully rugged and rocky. America has too few spots to climb near the sea on the East Coast, but Acadia does its best to make up for the lack of venues. The park's oceanside cliff cragging, especially at Great Head, is some of the best in the world. The occasional foghorn and crashing waves (make sure you have a firm stance on sea-level belay ledges) make great background noise to an abundance of exciting climbs.

There are many single-pitch climbs on Acadia's solid, coarse-grained pink granite. Otter Cliffs, Great Head, Echo Lake, and the Precipice on the south side of Champlain Mountain are the main climbing areas. Climbing here is a mixture of "trad" and sport; there are top-rope routes at places like Otter Cliffs routes to be found. The Story of O, a 250-foot crack climb on Champlain Mountain, is a favorite among locals here.

[b:f0e932d628]7. Arches National Park, Utah[/b:f0e932d628]

Looking through Delicate Arch toward the La Sal Range in Arches National Park is like viewing a thought trapped in time. It is disconcertingly beautiful, and like its fellow rock formations in Arches, it speaks loudly of nature's creative spirit, the power of erosion, and the beauty of decay.

A wonderland of balanced rock, sandstone fingers, fins, plateaus, and canyons in colors ranging from dove-white to sunset-red characterize this land five miles north of Moab, Utah. More than 2,000 arches, the highest concentration of natural arches in the world, give the park its name. Because they are unique and fragile, the national park service has wisely declared these arches off-limits to climbers. The park's sandstone spires, towers, and walls, however, are free game.

The entrada sandstone found in Arches National Park is decent rock for climbing, and Arches offers many engaging options. The West Face of Dark Angel on Devils Tower, established some 40 years ago, is a classic route. A very popular formation, as well as a relatively easy climb, is the squat 100-foot spire Owl Rock. Nearby, the two-pitch Tonka Tower offers a fun and engaging route with some crack climbing and an exciting mantle at the end. In the southwestern corner of the park both Three Gossips and Three Penguins have a bevy of options for the adventurous climber.

[b:f0e932d628]8. Capitol Reef National Park, Utah[/b:f0e932d628]

Capitol Reef National Park does not get nearly as many visitors as its Utah neighbors Bryce and Zion, and that is cause for celebration. This underestimated parkland is filled with vibrant colors—the Navajo referred to it as "the land of the sleeping rainbow"—and bizarre rock formations. Ancestral pueblos left behind thousand-year-old petroglyphs and more recent history has shown the park to be an ample hideout for outlaws of the Wild West. Because of its low profile, it remains a great place for escape.

Capitol Reef protects the Waterpocket Fold, a massive geologic stretch of uplifted, wrinkled earth that extends for more than 100 miles. The Fold reminded the first white explorers, many of whom were seafaring gents before taking the overland route, of an ocean reef. Round stones near the Fold brought to mind D.C.'s Capitol building and gave the park its improbable name.

Almost all of Capitol Reef's rock routes are found near the park's scenic drive. The rock quality varies tremendously from climb to climb, and though there are some solid routes on this entrada sandstone, much of it is loose and soft. Climbers must be aware of sandstone's unpredictable nature. Even along the best routes the rock may flake off.

The most popular routes in Capitol Reef are found on the Wingate formation. Capitol Roof on Cohab Canyon is also a great route for those able to climb 5.11.

[b:f0e932d628]9. Zion National Park, Utah[/b:f0e932d628]

The Mormons who named the wild canyon country in southwestern Utah "Little Zion" knew a promised land when they saw it. The 150,000 acres that are now Zion National Park are a true desert paradise.

Throughout the park wind-sculpted sandstone arches, sheer, multihued canyon walls, plateaus, canyons, and monoliths invite the child within to come out to this sandstone playground. Because nearly a mile separates the highest and lowest elevations in the park, this otherworldly territory is home to a spectacular multitude and diversity of plant and animal life. Both the living and the inanimate are cause for jaw-dropping amazement in Zion.

The beautiful Virgin River, which carved the park's centerpiece, Zion Canyon, snakes below cliffs as much as 2,200 feet high. Here is where you will find the classic big wall climbs of Zion. Much like Yosemite, these walls require commitment. You will find beauty, serenity, and few other climbers on these difficult multipitch routes.

Zion is not a place for the beginner. Solid crack-climbing skills are a must for many lines here. There are no "easy" climbs here. The main type of rock is Navajo sandstone, which is soft and unpredictable. Stories abound about the hazards of climbing in Zion: Pay attention to them. Zion has some excellent routes for the experienced climber, but even the seasoned rock rat should be aware of the dangers.

[b:f0e932d628]10. Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming[/b:f0e932d628]

When I drew as a child, my trees were broad evergreens, my mountains snowcapped equilateral triangles, and my birds floating m's in a blue sky. Much later I drove to Wyoming and discovered that I had been drawing the Teton Range in Grand Teton National Park. These magnificent peaks are the quintessential mountain range, providing inspiration for countless logos and, more importantly, an escape from all things sold by the owners of those logos.

Twelve snowcapped Teton peaks abruptly rise more than 12,000 feet into the wide Wyoming sky. The tallest peak, 13,770-foot Grand Teton, soars more than a mile above the valley floor, overlooking beautiful Jackson Hole to the south. The Tetons beg to be photographed, hiked, and for the truly adventurous, climbed.

Grand Teton National Park offers the rock climber a bit of everything. You can find some great crag climbing in Cascade Canyon and Death Canyon, less challenging (but no less fun) routes like Owen-Spalding Route on the south side of Grand Teton, and classics like Mount Moran's South Buttress. The beauty of Teewinot Mountain is not to be missed, and, for those of you who like to mix it up, there is no shortage of brilliant alpine climbs throughout the park.

South Buttress Right, a 5.11a route on solid, gray granite, is considered by many the premier Teton climb. There are three options for the first pitch, which is marked by a boulder at its base. A tricky 5.9 layback on the second pitch sets the tone for the rest of the route. The 5.11 crux, involving a devilish undercling and a terribly thin crack to the belay ledge, comes next. After completing the "Great Traverse" — a large slab of rock over empty space—two more challenging pitches will bring you to the large belay edge at the end of the climb.

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    Проста и компактна, новата TIKKA предлага 200 лумена яркост и широко разпръсване на светлината. С дълга продължителност на осветяването тя е практична за аутдор активности като къмпинг или трекинг, или за пътуване и също за ежедневни активности около дома или колата. Фосфорес ...
  • 10/05/2017

    Плащане с кредитни и дебитни карти


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  • 06/01/2017

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