Steve Bell, UK Climbing | Редактирана на Пон Юни 01, 2009 4:06 pm
"God created Arapiles first, then threw what was left to the rest of the world... "
Or so the locals believe. For trad climbers, this is probably true.
Arapiles is without doubt one of the best cliffs in the world and while areas such as the Blue Mountains may offer more climbs, Arapiles will always be Australia's premier crag. Its strength lies in the breadth of its appeal, from friendly beginners' crags bristling with holds, to hair-raising multi-pitch classics that force their way through improbable terrain and from superb bouldering in an idyllic setting to world famous sport climbs with no queues. There are a huge variety of climbs spanning the full spectrum of grades, from the delightful Tiptoe Ridge (6 /Diff) to the inspiring Punks in the Gym (32 /8b+) which was once labeled “the hardest route in the known universe”. There can't be many cliffs with such a density of high quality routes, the majority of which occupy the mass market of mid-grade (15 – 25/ VS – E5) trad routes. After spending a few weeks here, you may well be convinced that on that first Sunday God didn't rest at all; he/she made Arapiles.
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Dan Varian hangs out on Kachoong 21 Arapiles Australia
Mount Arapiles (referred to simply as 'the mount' by the locals) is an isolated tree covered dome rising from an otherwise completely flat landscape. The cliffs are on the east facing side, ranging from 10m to 120m high. The highest cliffs – Bard Buttress, Tiger Wall and The Watchtower Faces, are impressive walls seen from afar, but they hide much of the climbing. A succession of gullies and clefts slice into the mount at varying angles, which are flanked by quartzite precipices of varying height. It is this topography that gives the mount its numerous aspects, allowing the climber to choose sun or shade, warm or cool. It also soaks up huge numbers of climbers and even during the busiest weekends it's not uncommon to climb all day without seeing another team.
It's not just the climbing that makes Arapiles such a wonderful place either. The serene setting of the mount with its orange buttresses rising from the gentle tree-covered slopes attracts animals as well as climbers. There is something quite special about working out on one of the numerous boulders that scatter the hillside, with the sun beating down from a cloudless sky and a kangaroo or two grazing nearby. Other inhabitants include wallabies and stumpy tailed lizards and at night, cheeky possums prowl the campsite for food. There are snakes too, although you're unlikely to see any. Above, huge wedge-tailed eagles glide effortlessly on the gentle breeze to provide a spectacle for all those belayers patiently belaying all those climbers.
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The best thing about Arapiles is its rock. The "Uber baked sandstone / quartzite" is heavenly to climb on and unique to the area. The rock was made for climbing, incorporating all the qualities that make the sport pleasurable. You will delight at its feel, its habit of giving up superb holds when they are most unexpected and the excellent friction which you will put to good use as you bridge, smear and pad up its searing lines. The frequency of cracks and fissures usually ensures good protection, although it is sometimes tricky to place. Some climbs do have a reputation for a big scare factor, on which you may find yourself high above gear pumping out on small holds in a sea of 'babies bums' (a typically eloquent Australian description for the numerous orange and pink bulges that often ripple across otherwise featureless rock.) But these are described as such so you should only find yourself in such a situation if you are consciously seeking it. Some of the most popular routes have become a little polished, but the orange quartzite is generally less prone to wear than limestone or even gritstone. As such, even oft-climbed routes feel pristine. Arapiles offers the full gamut of types of line, from jaw-dropping corners to searing cracks; from rambling ridges to blank looking walls and from gruesome chimneys to holdless slabs. In between are less obvious features which can provide equally unforgettable climbing experiences.
The Climbs
Get a copy of the new Arapiles Selected Climbs (Mentz, Tempest, 2008) start off at a comfortable grade and select the two and three star routes in the graded index. Each one of them will be brilliant. The climbs are too numerous and the cliffs too complex to describe here so I will just mention a few of my favourite mid-grade climbs:
- Surface to Air (17/HVS) blasts up steep terrain on unbelievable holds.
- Skink (18/HVS) is a wonderful multi-pitch adventure up architectural rock.
- Death Row (18/HVS) is a one-pitch wonder, its name giving food for thought as you try and figure out how to escape from its bottomless sentry box.
- Tannin (19/E1) is an intimidating line up an imposing red wall which bestows the unusual gift of making you think you're climbing well, even if you're not!
- Thunder Crack (20/E2) is simply awesome, just push through the low crux and swagger up the steepness.
- Kachoong (21/E2) looks and feels spectacular, the hard part is having the courage to go for it, then just keep pulling and hope you get over the roof before your arms expire!
- Squeakeasy (22/E3) isn't easy at all, but a memorable blur of superb moves up an unrelenting groove.
- The two pitch Second Coming (22/E3) has a big route feel to it, giving fantastic climbing through hostile terrain.
- Birdman of Alcatraz (23/E4) is the classic of its grade; fumbling for holds at the top of the layback, the last thing you want to do is fly.
For each of these climbs, there are a hundred others which may well be someone else's favourite. There are many others at lower and higher grades, I just haven't done enough of them – yet.
The climbs mentioned above are all trad routes, but if you prefer clip-ups, head for Spasm in the Chasm (25/7b), Have a Good Flight (25/7b) or the cluster of harder sport routes on the Henry Bolte Wall or Uncle Charlie's Left Nostril. If you prefer bouldering, check out the campsite boulders first, then be prepared to walk a while to get to the best gems – you will be well rewarded.
Превод от : Димитър Колешев
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On April 27, Korean Oh Eun-sun summited 26,545-foot Annapurna, and news stories worldwide declared she was the first woman to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks. However, doubts about her May 2009 summit of Kangchenjunga have continued to swirl, including questions raised by rival Edurne Pasaban of Spain, who completed the 14 peaks in May of this year.
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